slow boat to saigon

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Feb 022014
 

we woke on saturday morning in chau doc and went for a wander through the huge street market before breakfast, which we got at a stall across the road from the restaurant, rice with a thin pork steak that was freshly char grilled, served with a yummy spicy sauce and a little salad.

we were picked up by a driver and headed off for our slow boat which was waiting for us in Long Xuyen, we arrived about lunch time and met our guide for the next couple of days, kiet. we headed out in the small boat and kiet explained that we were the only guests on the good ship “Le Conchinchine” – a boat 80′ long with 3 decks, 12 cabins  and 4 crew!!

we got comfortable and then headed off down the mighty mekong river towards Sa Dec, we had a delicious lunch of banana flower salad with shredded chicken followed by fried bread pork parcels, which I suspect were a bit fattening! never mind, because ahead of us was a 12km ride through flower growing villages outside Sa Dec.

first we disembarked into the small boat and went across  the river to look at some brick kilns, the driveshaft promptly fell apart and we started drifting downriver, kiet and I managed to paddle across to the kilns while the driver hung upside down over the motor trying to fix the drive shaft!

we rejoined the big boat and motored off down the mekong, its a magical thing travelling down a big river slowly on a large boat, there is plenty of time to take all the sights in, a lovely breeze keeps you cool, people yell out to you from the banks, you can move around, snooze, or play hide and seek with the crew!

we then unloaded the bikes and set off for Sa Dec where the big boat would meet us, it was absolutely magical, we rode mainly on quiet concrete paths through the shady villages, winding our way through the beautiful nurseries  of flowers that these villages are famous for. it was late afternoon and a lovely temperature for a leisurely ride!

we dropped the bikes back at the boat at the sa dec wharf and then had a quick wander through the nightmarkets, before setting off to steam down river to our night anchorage, we sat up on the top deck watching the sun go down, sipping a beer while sal had a foot massage at the same time from one of the crew!

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market in sa dec

dinner was served after our cocktails in the dining deck, we had a delicate soup first, just vegetables but really tasty, next we had calamari, this was followed by rice with stir fried vegies, sweet and sour pork and a whole fish done in a tomato chilli sauce.

following dinner we had a few games of poker with the crew before retiring to our huge cabins for a well earned rest!

bye and hi

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Jan 312014
 

holc12

bye to cambodia, and hi to vietnam!

today we caught the fast boat from phnom penh, down the mekong river to châu dóc, a small city on the river where we are spending a night in a hotel before joining the slow boat for the trip on to ho chi min city (HCMC).

as toad of toad hall famously said, “there is nothing half so much fun as simply messing about in boats!”, its such a pleasant way to travel, cool breeze, no bumps, great scenery as you cruise down the river, comfortable chairs, more leg space than a plane and you can sit outside.

also border crossings are so much more civilised, we pulled into a jetty and disembarked to clear out of cambodia, left our luggage on board, a couple of minutes later and our passports were stamped, we bought a cold beer from the girl on the jetty and jumped back on the boat.

exactly 1 beer later and we pulled into the jetty at the vietnamese border, someone took all our passports, we sat around and had another beer, climbed back on the boat and the same someone gave us all our passports back, stamped and we were officially in vietnam!

the whole trip took about 5 hours and we pulled in to châu dóc just before sunset, someone said to us our hotel was “50m that way and then turn left and its on your right down that street”. after following those directions and finding nothing resembling a hotel we asked some locals eating their dinner where the hotel was and despite their lack of english and our total absence of vietnamese, they took us to the door.

we had no sooner let ourselves in the room than the tour operator from ho chi minh that I had booked the boat trips through rang us to check we had arrived ok, and then told us the arrangements for our transfer by car to the slow boat in the morning.

it never ceases to amaze me how these things all just seem to fall into place, considering this was all organised at the last minute via email with someone in HCMC and it relied on a tuk tuk picking us up from our hotel in phnom penh, dropping us at the ferry terminal, somehow someone knowing which boat we were meant to go on from the 4 tied up at the wharf, getting us on the right boat, across two borders and into a hotel in the back streets of a wild river town – all with minimal language in common and none of the people involved working directly for the company organising the trip who were in a city hundreds of km’s away.

the internet has certainly transformed travel beyond belief in the last 10 years!

so of course the order of the day was to get straight out on the streets and find some nice local food, we walked 50m up the street from the hotel and there were just acres of street carts making fresh vietnamese meals, hundreds of people perched on the ubiquitous plastic stools at a shonky plastic table woofing down great fresh food.

sal saw a noodle dish being taken to a table and so pointed to that to choose a dish, i managed to get the girl serving to pick something off the menu for me – which turned out to be beef with chilli and lemongrass, and kai ended up with shredded chicken and fried rice – not quite what he wanted but he ate it with gusto! sal’s turned out to be noodles with prawns and squid and a top choice!

click on ‘i’ in top left corner of images for caption.

last supper, phnom penh

 foodie stuff, holiday 2014, us  1 Response »
Jan 312014
 

holc11

tonite was our last dinner in phnom penh and we headed out to a highly recommended restaurant, the anjali, for a cambodian speciality, fish amok. its made with a freshwater monk fish and a cocunut cream sauce with kaffir lime, chilli, lemon grass, galangal, garlic and fish sauce. it was absolutely superb! we also had a pork lok lak, which is pork cooked in a delicat sweet and sour souce with fresh green pepper corns.

we managed to squeeze in a dessert as well, kai had saute apple with ice cream and i had saute pineapple with ice cream – both were delicious.

a fitting final feast on our cambodian journey and the tuk tuk drive home along the mekong water front in the cool night air was a perfect end to a very enjoyable night.

 

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dinner

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Jan 282014
 

holc8

tonite sal & i walked down to the riverfront for a couple of beers in a cafe overlooking the esplanade, after 2 large handles of beer each, we drained our wallet of the princley sum of $2 and then walked along the road where we had seen street vendors set up last night, all the tables had little gas burners on them which the cambodians call BBQ’s so we sat down and waited until a couple of giggly girls with no english turned up at the table, they gave us an arrangement of veges, herbs, eggs, noodles and raw meat as well as a pot which they put on the burner.

turned out the pot was full of tasty stock with dumplings, we then added the rest of the ingredients to our own taste and timing and then ladled the resulting noodle soup into bowls and tore up vietnamese mint to add to it – it was superb, the stock is yummy and adding the extras and cooking at the table just adds to the whole experience.

we provided free entertainment for the local diners as well as the giggly girls, watching the clumsy barangs trying to cook, serve and eat their local dish!

we woofed down all our stomachs could hold, then we had a couple more beers to wash it down and this time had our wallet lightened by  $7 – and we left enough in the pot to feed a small village!

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ou ruessei market

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Jan 272014
 

today we found the ou ruessei market in phnom penh, its the real khmer local market where all the farmers sell their produce, its complete mayhem! thousands of vendors selling fruit, veges, meat, seafood, dried products, cooked products, spices, sauces, you name it, they have it.

the market is a swarming mass of humanity, an olfactory overload and visual kaleidoscope, its tighter than a can of sardines, the floors are wet and uneven. the massive undercover market is surrounded by a moat of motorcycles 10 deep for its entire circumference and there are hundreds of tuk-tuks touting for transport to and from. no one speaks any english, there are no tourists and all transactions are in local currency (khmer riel).

although i wasnt hungry i couldnt go past the freshly made spring rolls with vermicelli noodles and pork, at 500 riel (25c) I think i was charged tourist price, but what the hell, they were to die for.

click on ‘i’ in top left corner of images for description

in other news today, we nearly got caught up in a protest this morning, the street we were walking along had the protest walking down the street the other way, there was several hundred people blocking the road with placards and monks in the frontline, police started pouring in to the area, people were running away past us and we decided descretion was the better part of valour and turned tail and ran away as well! we saw truckloads of riot police in full body armour, shields and armed with what i presume were guns for rubber bullets and smoke canisters.

news of the protest here – http://abcnews.go.com/International/wireStory/cambodian-police-break-protest-tv-license-22155393

last supper, siem reap

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Jan 252014
 

so tomorrow morning we are off to phnom penh, by car and then boat down the mekong river. we cant catch the boat all the way because being the middle of the dry season, the water is too low up this end.

siem reap reminds me of so many of the larger towns i have stayed over my many years of travelling the world, it takes 3 or 4 days to really get connected with the energy of the place, to work out where to eat, where to shop, and to start relaxing into the transition from traveller to resident – not resident in the sense of living permenantly in a place. Rather being at ease sufficiently to feel like you have stopped moving.

unfortunately that often means you are leaving just when you get the sense you should be staying!

siem reap is a dirty, dusty, flat town with few redeeming features – but like so much of the world, the redeeming features are the people and the food, tonite was a perfect example. we went back to the little restaurant that our guide had shown us, and where we had lunch with him 2 days ago. tonite we picked through the menu and kai had a simple but yummy fried chicken dish with rice, we had a simple fish soup with morning glory, a pork and vegetables salad and the wonderful fish & pork omelette (whoddu thunk!).

holc5

a splendid and simple meal, with a room full of laughing and friendly cambodian girls who cook and wait on the few dodgy tables and plastic chairs, a family of orphaned girls taken in by their uncle and set up in the restaurant as they grew up. kai ended up sitting with one of the sons of one of the sisters and tried his best to ‘corrupt’ him by playing games on the iPhone with him. so we sat and had a cool beer, chatting with the girls, watching some inane comedy in kmher on the TV while 2 boys were absorbed in their games of the 21st century.

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its that simple, and its more than enough for me, its why i travel, i have never been one for seeking out other tourists to sit and chat with, to hook up on facebook or compare lists of places been and things done at the shallowest level, travelling for me is about that interconnection with the people, culture and food of the places we visit.

yet in a city filled with thousands of tourists we saw almost none sitting in the khmer restaurants, or eating the street food with the local workers, and I never saw another child interacting with the cambodian kids – and we wonder why there is so much racism and xenophobia, although I am not sure which is the chicken and which is the egg.

 

temples & monkeys

 foodie stuff, holiday 2014, us  1 Response »
Jan 242014
 

holc3this morning we found a little french cafe we had been looking for, kai woofed down pancakes and chocolate, which while not very healthy, were delicious by all accounts. he then had a hair cut and after lunch Bun picked us up and we headed out to the temples again, first up was Ta Prohm, where scenes of the film Tomb Raider were shot. it is largely overgrown with huge banyan trees wrapped around and growing through its structure.

Ta Nei was the second one we visited, also largely overgrown by the jungle, but as its hidden away down a dirt track very few tourists visit it, in fact while we were there we were the only people visiting the temple – a welcome relief from the hordes crawling over the other temples. we were able to get a real sense of the peace and serenity of these incredible temples set in the towering and shady jungle.

the final temple we visited was Bayon, this temple was built in a period of peace between hindus and buddhists in cambodia and the intricate carvings reflect this. its known as the temple of faces due to the large buhdda faces carved in the towers.

our final stop for the day was to observe a troupe of monkeys playing in the grass beside the road, it was a highlight for kai, there were several new born babies as well as big males, pregnant mums and juveniles. we bought some bananas to feed them with and i discovered they dont like having their tails pulled – i was only actually giving it a gentle tug to encourage one to turn around for a photo, but i have a scratch on my leg to prove it!

we actually enjoyed the 3 temples today much more than Angkor Wat, they were smaller and more intimate, the shade from the huge trees makes them cooler and overall they just seemed more interesting.

the history of the whole region is fascinating, the vandalism by each of the religions towards the others is such a sad indictment of organised religion, so many of the carvings defaced after changes between hinduism, buddhism and islam as the state religions in the khmer kingdom.

the damage is much worse than that caused by 900 years of weathering or decades of ferocious war in the 20th century.

the sheer scale of the empire at its peak in the 12 century is hard to picture, such enterprise, infrastructure development, enginineering and pure human effort is hard to imagine – especially as the whole region was basically deserted later, hence the fact that all these temples lay unknown and undiscovered until the 1930’s.

tomorrow we are having a lay day, then sunday we are catching the boat down to Phnom Penh.

click on the ‘i’ in the top left hand corner of the images to see the caption.

 

cambodia

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Jan 242014
 

holcas you can see, its a bit chilly in the mornings in siem reap, even allowing for us coming out of our wet season and into their dry, there is no doubt its rather cool first up.

we have spent a couple of days getting familiar with siem reap, being somewhere that there are so many tourists is a bit of a shock after malaysia, and it does detract from the experience somewhat.

the food is good, although its proving harder than I expected to find good local food – mainly due to tourists meaning that there are many more western style restaurants than i expected.

as you can see from the tarantula video, there are still opportunities for authentic street food!

today we did angkor wat, we hired a guide,  he had a car with a driver and he was certainly informed and passionate in his guiding, the numbers alone are impressive, 30 million tons of sandstone, floated on bamboo rafts down a canal from the mountain where it was mined, 8000 elephants in the construction and a 100,000 khmer labourers to build it – all done over 900 years ago.

the highlight for me was the little cambodian restaurant that our guide, Bun took us to after the tour! we asked him to take us somewhere to have a traditional cambodian meal and the fact that the restaurant is only 100m from out hotel is an added bonus!

we had an amazing omelette, a yummy sour soup with fish, a great pork and pumkin dish, and a sweet and sour vegetables.

last night we had the amazing experience of going to the local cambodian circus, called phare.

it was an incredible blend of culture, theatre, story telling, dance, acrobatics, juggling and music – with amazing energy and intensity.

the circus schools takes disadvantaged young kids from cambodia and teaches them to become performers so it has an important social as well as cultural function. we had vip seats in the centre, front row – when the flaming skipping rope slipped out of their hands , as you will see in the video, it nearly hit us and kai reckoned “we were nearly killed!”. kai had an absolute ball and along with Lego land I think it is a highlight of his travels so far.




tarantula!

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Jan 222014
 

sometimes a video paints a thousand words!




butterworth

 foodie stuff, holiday 2014, us  1 Response »
Jan 192014
 

this morning we found a new place for breakfast, very good roti teluh (roti with egg). i made a little video of the guy making the teh tarik which is the indian hot drink made with tea, condensed and evapourated milk. they pour it as you can see in the video to make it skightly foamy and reduce the temperature for drinking. for some unknown reason its the perfect accompaniment to  spicy food!




we decided to walk down to the waterfront and catch the ferry across to Butterworth for lunch today, I assumed there would be great hawker food on the Butterworth side because all the buses and trains are arriving there for people to catch the ferry across to penang, it proved to be the case and we had another excellent meal. the highlight for me was actually a salad made with salted cucumber slices, chilli, pineapple and shallots!

this is the stall we got our plate of food from, dont you wish we had food like this in australia at the bus stop!

holp3 (4)the net here is very slow tonite so i wont put too many images up, but we finished lunch and caught the next ferry back to penang, sal went off to get her hair done and kai and i moved apartments to the one next door as we couldnt stay in one for the whole 4 nights so we are doing 2 in each. very similar to the one next door, a little bigger with 2 bedrooms and different antiques inside.

for dinner we headed down to a big night market we had spotted when we went to catch the ferry at lunchtime, once again our eyes were bigger than our tummies!

holp3 (6) the net is very slow here tonite so i will post some more pics when it speeds up again! ok net back up so here are the rest of the images from yesterday, as usual, click on the ‘i’ in the top left corner of the image to see the caption.

moar penang

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Jan 182014
 

sal and i had a delicious meal of indian street food in little india last night, chook curry, duck curry, dahl, vege curry and chapatis washed down with a cup of chi, about $8 ozzie.

we were woken this morning by the call to prayers from the local mosque, a form of terrorism that is singularly effective, especially with modern amplifying systems!

breakfast was roti teluh (roti with eggs and onion), dahl and beef curry, kai had plain roti and the breakfast cost us about $4! absolutely yummy and a great start to the morning, we then wandered down to the foreshore and the old fort which allowed kai to burn off some pent up energy!

penang

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Jan 172014
 

today we said goodbye to KL, joe & christian and headed north to penang in our hire car, it was a recent model toyota camry and kai rated it about a 9 out of 10 for accessories! we had a great run up to penang, dropped into ipoh for lunch and sat on about 140kmh most of the way, boy has that road improved since last time i was on it!!

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this is the most extreme example of camber i have ever seen on a car, this guy was doing about 130kmh up the highway, only appeared to have a small amount of trouble getting around gentle bends, i have no idea how far he was going, but he would be needing a new set of rear tyres when he got there!

we also stopped a couple of times at the rest stops for a pee on the way up, they are a thing, huge carparks full of hundreds of cars and trucks, parking guards to direct you, many hundreds of people swarming through the shops and stalls for food and drinks and massive toilet blocks, very clean, no waiting and there seems to be one of these every 20km or so! amazingly efficient and functional.

we arrived at our little apartment in the world heritage area of georgetown early afternoon, it certainly lives up to the description on the website,

very comfortable and tastefully furnished, you can see more about the project on their website, http://www.straitscollection.com.my/index.htm

a quick walk around the precinct of our apartment reminded me of what a photographer’s paradise georgetown is, here is just a few quick snaps from our first wander around,

as usual, click on the ‘i’ to read the image description

 

 Posted by at 7:56 pm  Tagged with:



KL

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Jan 142014
 

we did the train trip up from JB to KL yesterday, so much more pleasant than flying! sure it takes longer but its relaxed, you can move around, there is scenery to look at all the way and you can use your iThings!

there is lots of palm oil and rubber plantations along the way, some jungle, lots of villages and towns, beautiful old timber traditional malay houses so there is always something to look at.

we got to KL Sentral station and caught a taxi to our amazing apartment, my friend Joe had recommended it as it was only 10 minutes from their house and it is something special, 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom, full kitchen and a balcony, expansive views across KL and very luxurious,

joe and his son christian came over and picked us up last night and we met up with joe’s wife, mey at the restaurant they took us to for dinner – just our style of eating place, locals only, very typical SE asian eatery, fantastic food and a great night was had by all!

joe and i actually met online in an apple forum maybe 12 years or so ago, we have maintained a friendship over that time but until yesterday we had never met before, so we have watched each others children grow up from a distance! It was fantastic to finally meet them in person and they are just a lovely family and so hospitable and friendly.

once again, click on the ‘i’ to see the photo captions.

legoland!

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Jan 122014
 

a lovely bunch of coconuts

well you might ask what coconuts have to with legoland, nothing really! they were lying beside the grill in the restaurant we had breakfast in and i snapped a pic of them. we went back for another murtabak daging, although sal had a roti telur (roti with an egg in it),

murtabak daging

at least i remembered a photo before eating all of it! accompanied with a glass of nescafe with condensed milk, not quite the same flavour profile as a latte out of my italian lever espresso machine! i have made a little video of the roti making, quite a skill –




so then it was in the taxi and off to legoland, kai had a ball, sal won a huge angry birds stuffed toy by winning one of those silly fairground throwing challenges that no one normally wins! click on the ‘i’ in the top left hand corner to see the photo descriptions.

 

 

 

3 countries 1 birthday

 foodie stuff, holiday 2014, us  3 Responses »
Jan 112014
 

hol14.1

today happens to be my birthday and the start of our latest travel adventure, we left home last night, after a lovely ‘last supper’ with jeremy & leesi, they dropped us at the airport and we headed off to darwin. we had one of the worst flights i have ever had, really bad turbulence due to big thunderstorms in darwin. we ended up circling for an hour waiting for a gap in the storm cells to plonk the plane on the tarmac.

we then had a couple hours waiting in darwin airport before we left for singapore, so i turned 21 again in australia, eventually we boarded our silk air flight to SNG and headed north. after flying through the early hours of the morning we arrived at changi airport at about 7.30am and cleared customs and immigration then stumbled around the three terminals showing kai the airport and filling in a bit of time before catching a bus across to the border, clearing out of singapore customs and immigration and then into malaysia.

the system was as good as i remembered it, you basically hop on and off the bus either side of each border crossing, the bus is automagically waiting for you on the other side, a massive, mobile, seething mass of people relentlessly moving in the same direction, with fast and efficient government employees making the whole thing happen seamlessly and in a timely fashion. (take note australia!)

so by the time we were jumping in a taxi as we exited malaysian immigration, i was in the 3rd country for my birthday, and by this stage feeling a bit second hand! our good fortune was doubled when the hotel informed us the previous guests had already checked out and our 2 bedroom family suite was cleaned and available to check in! so we were able to settle in to our room at 9.30 in the morning which was a great relief after a long night of travel.

we ventured out for brunch and i found a little local restaurant that cooked murtabak daging – one of my favourite morning dishes in malaysia. if you are not familiar its an Indian Muslim wrap. It’s a large, thin, roti stuffed with various meat fillings, along with eggs and onions and then fried on a hotplate. daging refers to the meat being beef. its served with dahl and a couple of different curry sauces, you tear the murtabak into pieces and dip them into the sauces. its simply the best way to start a day!

we then returned to the hotel for a well deserved siesta, there are no photos of the brunch because we woofed it down before i thought of taking a pic! we did some more wandering around Johore Bahru in the afternoon and picked up a bit of shopping. its great to be somewhere where you simply dont see any other tourists and no one humbugs you on the street on in the shops. most tourists dont stop in JB, they stay in singapore and then go straight to malacca, KL or Penang.

tonite we went to a little local food court round the corner and filled up on chicken satays, beef rendang, pork ribs and various vege dishes, all washed down with a couple of carlsberg beers! again i forgot to take photos until the meal was nearly finished, but here is a snap of the mainly empty plates!

hol14

time for an early night now, i feel as if my birthday has gone on for about 3 days! we are off to legoland tomorrow which has kai beside himself with excitement, but i know it will be another big day so we need to recharge the batteries.

yakitori 2

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Dec 222013
 

i ordered a little hida konro for individual charcoal grilling, they are too cute and I think I may order a couple more for dinner parties, so i whipped up some tare (sauce) for yakitori and skewered up some chicken thighs with spring onions. perfect with a cold beer!

 Posted by at 6:38 pm  Tagged with:



Yakitori

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Dec 052013
 

 

Watching David Chang on “The Mind of a Chef” inspired me to have a crack at Yakitori today, i picked up a kilo or so of chook wings and then spent the next 11 months de-boning them! Ok so it was about 20 minutes actually, and i did get faster once I got a technique happening.

Looking at David Chang’s it looks like he only takes out the big bone and not the 2 smaller ones, but I decided to take the lot out which is a bit more fiddly but I like the idea of bone free.

I set the de-boned wings on 2 wooden skewers for each wing that I had soaked in water, and put them in the fridge while I made the ‘tare’ or sauce. Its basically soy, mirin, sake and sugar thickened with a bit of corn flour so its pretty quick to whip up.

Then it was simply a matter of firing up the char grill and cooking the de-boned chook wings, when they were just about ready I brushed on the ‘tare’ and gave them another minute before plating up and garnishing with chopped shallots.

 Posted by at 7:27 pm  Tagged with:



build up

 foodie stuff, us  2 Responses »
Oct 272013
 

oct

its that time of year again, glass off days perfect for getting out on the boat.  i was amazed to see this bird sitting on the back of a sleeping turtle! actually saw this twice on the same day so it must be more common than i realised.

oct 2

it has also been a busy month for visitors, jeremy and leesi have been back for a week or so and our friend phil o’brien has also been here for a week. phil has been a friend from the very early days of garma, he and i started out with me helping him in the kitchen, among my other jobs. as well as being a bush cook phil is a singer, songwriter, author, actor, film maker, rouseabout and calendar producer – although as he says, “i have done a lot of things, but I am not very good at any of them!”

phil and i were out seeing friends, tony & linda and we scored half a dozen crayfish from them so it was onto the char grill with those babies, i split them in half and made a butter with garlic, chilli, fish sauce, kaffir lime leaves and a few other bits and pieces and let them sit with the butter slowly melting into the flesh, some lime slices on top and they were ready to throw on the heat! phil knocked up a monster potato bake and leesi’s salad crafting skills came to the fore.

kai also decided to use phil as his news story for school, he asked phil if that was ok and whether phil could play a song for his news. phil agreed – but only if kai and i were the backing singers for the chorus! (the things you do for your kids!)

here is the video of his news presentation.




 

 

hamburglars

 foodie stuff, us  1 Response »
Jul 052013
 

i woke up at lunch time after my sleep following night shift and for some reason i was filled with un seasonal energy and enthusiasm! remembering i had a kilo of beautiful wagyu mince beef in the fridge i thought i would whip up a batch of burgers for dinner.

hamburglaryou can see the colour of the meat here, nothing fancy, some fried onion, 2 eggs, parsley and seasoning. i reckon you could have eaten the uncooked the beef was so good!

i realised i had the makings for some bread as well so i made a batch of bread rolls and caramelised some spanish onions. that was about it, a hot roll, sploosh of aioli, slice of swiss cheese, lettuce and beetroot and balsamic jam and dinner was done!

if you missed our recent trip to bali, i blogged about it on our balibliss blog, http://balibliss.tumblr.com

hamburglar (1)

 

 

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