Aug 262014
 

june  001

its been far too long since my last post, life has moved fast since my redundancy from rio, even before i finished up in the lab i was already working for lirrwi tourism as their operations coordinator.

after darwin, kai & i drove down to katherine where we discovered the show was on, so we spent a couple of hours there before heading to the country club for dinner with mick, ruth & kirrily and back to mick’s cabin on the river for the night. mick is a tour guide in katherine, he has operated in the NT for 30 years and he has been mentoring us at lirrwi. ruth & kirrily are 2 volunteers who have been working for us for a couple of months.

well thats enough images for one post! i will add photos from the tours shortly.

 Posted by at 7:22 pm



Jun 012014
 

gary  008

the last couple of weeks we have had gary and his son tim, staying with us. gary is an old mate of my brother, simon’s and they have been threatening to come for a fishing trip for about 10 years, simon is always too busy and finally gary got sick of waiting and rang me and told me he was coming and as simon was once again unavailable he decieded to bring his son tim.

i guess simon does have the excuse this year that he and his family are just about to head off to canada for a month, but he missed out on a pretty damn fine adventure!

we have struggled with the weather a bit, its been very windy for virtually their whole visit, with typical dry season south easterlies of  15-20kts every day, but we have made the most of it. their first day here i took them to my seekrit spot to try for some land based barra and we got a few nice fish, the photo above is tim’s first barra so that got things off to a good start.

gary  009

the next couple of days we worked hard for little reward, bashing across the bay so we could fish the creeks, we got a couple of fish and a feed of mudcrab, so it wasnt a total loss. the little croc having a snooze on the sandback was about 20m from where i jumped out of the boat to push us across a shallow spot trying to get into the giddys river at low tide. i had a good look in the water before jumping in, but forgot to look on the bank! luckily he was having a nanna nap in the cool conditions!

the second week we headed out on the hama pearl ii for a 3 day charter in buckingham bay, the plan was to target barra, but we had left our run a bit late in the year, the cool water and lack of run off meant there were not many barra around and the ones that we caught were mainly rats. the trip was saved by a couple of days of fishing the reefs off the front of kurella creek where we were anchored. we caught a heap of goldies and quite a few big jewfish.

on the last day kai and i climbed to the top of the hill on the bank of the kurella river and took some pics of the hama pearl anchored in the river, finally thanks to brad and kim for an amazing charter, we had our stomachs stretched with a constant stream of fantastic food, from full cooked breakfasts everyday, yummy cakes and biscuits, filling lunches, plates of nibblies to have with cold beers at the end of a long days fishing, magnificent dinners and filling desserts! the boat was always spotlessly clean, nothing too much trouble for our hosts, cool beds in the air con cabin and hot showers!

if anyone is considering a charter in arnhem land you cant go past ss charters, http://www.sscharters.com.au

all in all its been a great couple of weeks, many fine memories for all involved and we are already making plans for another trip when the weather is more conducive to bagging the elusive barra!

May 112014
 

….is mum’s day, but today is the day we celebrate, treat and treasure them.

mum  006

i helped kai cook sal a mum’s day breakfast in bed, her favourite of eggs benedict, with smoked salmon today.

mum  007

last night i cooked some golden snapper fillets from a fish that sal had caught in her win in the women’s fishing comp, i did them crispy skin style with a bed of kumera mash and a tomato and cream reduction sauce.

earlier in the week we had a lovely lunch of roquette salad with croutons, prosciutto, poached egg and vinno cotta dressing. we also fired up the chargrill with a couple of scruptious porterhouse steaks which carved up like slicing through butter.

 

i also had a very interesting night earlier in the week when i went for drink with lirrwi tourism, with whom i will be working after june. they had various ‘talent’ in town for a shoot for tourism NT, and also had chef sean corkery visiting to help with menu planning for tours. sean is head chef at cafe sopra in sydney and a young man who is extremely passionate about his cooking, travel and life in general.

we had a great night talking about food and travel and hopefully when he comes up next we can find time to get out on the boat for some fishing and whip up a few culinary storms together!

May 052014
 

leftovers

we were lucky enough in the NT to have our 3rd long weekend in a row – so easter, anzac day and now may day, so another sleep in and late breakfast!

yesterday we had putty & sarah over for brunch, (i only mention this because putty gets sulky if i dont mention him regularly in my blog), and i had some leftovers from the prep so i knocked up a quick and dirty salad breakfast for sal & i.

the leftover sour dough i chopped roughly into croutons and fried up, the leftover  prosciutto i grilled and chopped up and then i tossed a salad together with fresh roquette, spanish onion, baby tomotoes and fresh basil from the garden. 

a sploosh of vino cotto fro dressing and a poached egg perched atop and breakfast was complete.

(sorry sarah, i think this was better than yesterdays brunch!)

Apr 272014
 

glamping  006they say a picture paints a thousand words, so in light of the photo of the glorious sunset over mallison island from nyinyikay, i shall try to keep the words to a minimum!

over about 30 minutes it just kept getting more intense and each “WOW!” was shortly followed by another as the horizon lit up, then the water turned to pink and gold and finally the clouds caught on fire.

we were back at nyinyikay to pack up and clean up after last weeks film shoot, this time sal & kai came with me, between rain showers sal & I packed up all the tents, stretcher beds and bedding as well as cleaning up the camp. we were able to stay in the house again so it was definitely ‘glamping’ as we did bring out tents but they remained unused!

the ‘glamping’ caravel got a run, reinforcing how amazing these little machines are, a 50 year old italian espresso machine that still turns out gorgeous sweet shots of coffee nectar.

glamping  009the ‘glamping’ theme continued with kai initiating a marshmallow cook up with the other kids, he helped gather firewood and with lighting the soggy fire with loads of paper bark and buckets of excitement. it was all too exciting to wait until after dinner!

something must have been wrong with the phase of the moon, or the way i cut my hair, because contrary to last weekend, the fishing was dead quiet, it didnt matter where we went or what time of day, we couldnt raise a fish, which for somewhere as fishy as this is something else! it also seemed to start raining everytime we went for a fish, which was not unpleasant given the lack of wind and tropical heat.

i must admit it was one of the rare times in my life where i enjoyed fishing – normally i only enjoy catching fish, not fishing – but the landscape at the top of arnhem bay is just so beautiful that standing on a rock taking it all in while futilely flicking lures is a not unpleasant pasttime.

luckily my last session on the rocks at the end of the beach in front of the house, (in steady rain!), produced a decent fish at last and i threw a nice little barra in the esky to take home for dinner tonite!

glamping  010

driving home we came across a pair of buffalo having a quiet afternoon soak in one of the creek crossings, they were less than amused about the rude interruption of a landcruiser bearing down on them and took off ahead of us down the track.

in closing, a few more shots of the incredible sunset, i couldnt decide which was the best shot, so i have culled it down to the best few!

 

 

 Posted by at 8:32 pm



Apr 202014
 

nyinyikay  010

friday saw me headed off to nyinyikay, a small homeland on the tip of arnhem bay, i was joining lirrwi tourism in supporting a film crew shooting some reality TV rubbish involving 6 young city things being taken out of the surburban comfort zone and being confronted with challenges to their personal stereotypes. its all pretty voyeuristic and exploitive, but they wanted to shoot an episode in arnhem land, hence we were driving 5 vehicles, 2 towing trailers, in torrential, tropical rain, 4 hours from nhulun to nyinyikay.

we had to cater for 15 crew as well as the cast of 6, so its a lot of resources, tents, stretcher beds, bedding, food and drinks for 21 people for 4 days over easter. given that it had been raining for the last 3 days solid, we were not sure whether we would even be able to get out to nyinyikay , nor whether the cast & crew would be able to fly in on saturday morning.

as it turned out the rain did stop on saturday so we were able to get all the tents set up in time and we had the catering set up on the verandah of the house we were staying in so we had shelter if it rained again. the whole entourage, with thousands of kilos of camera and sound gear, flew in on about 5 seperate small charter flights from gove airport.

between looking after the clients, we were able to get some good fishing in, i think we ended up with about 5 barra that were keepers, half a dozen each of blue salmon, mangrove jack and golden snapper.

all of the families of the nyinyikay community were fantastic with sharing their culture and land with the visiting mob, and its certainly a good example of the potential for cultural tourism in the region and the benefits it can bring to small communities seeking sustainable economic models.

i dont know what the TV show is called even, so i cant tell you to watch out for it anyway, which is just as well because i think the cringe factor will be high.

 

Apr 112014
 

april  002so today was a perfect, windless, wet season day, so we loaded the tinny up and headed out for a fish, the plan was to head up to last chance shoal to troll for a few macks and then on to cape wilberforce for some bottom bouncing on some bommies up there, finishing up with lunch on the beach at elizabeth bay.

the best laid plans of mice & men etc…..we got up to last chance shoal and almost straight away hooked up a fish, i told kai to pull it in and so he started pulling the trolling line in, it came really easy as if it were a very small fish, but when it got to the boat I realised it was a big mack and it was very green – it saw the boat and me swing down to gaff it and it went mental, as it took off vertically out of the water at the back of the boat it tore the hydraulic line out of the ram for the steering on the motor!

i spent the best part of an hour trying to repair it, but had no luck so I had to macgyver a hand steering setup with the gaff, an old boat hook, a roll of duct tape and some cord line! anyway it got us home so alls well that ends well!

dinner was kai’s mackerel turned into thai fish cakes, mango salsa and mountain rice.

 

Apr 062014
 

april  016 (1)well Putty gets a mention for a second week in a row! Putty, Sarah and Kasey joined us for dinner, following my successful fishing trip earlier in the week, we had a cook up on thursday night and i did the mangrove jack & golden snapper thai style – so whole crispy skin, wok fried with tamarind chilli sauce. its always been one of my favourite thai dishes but one i have never actually cooked myself. I was very happy with the result, its easy to prep and the sauce is very simple.

the other dish was one inspired by our slow boat trip down the mekong delta in vietnam, a banana blossom salad with coconut poached chicken, i had managed to pick up a banana blossom at the parap markets when we were in Darwin last weekend, so it was just a matter of poaching some organic chook breasts and making a nice spicy dressing, another dish that is simple to prepare and tastes great – as well as being something a bit different!

april  015 (1)the boys had a fun night together, no doubt involving lots of minecraft and skylanders! our dinner had a bit much spice for their palates so they enjoyed chicken wraps instead.

april  001

 

 Posted by at 5:33 pm  Tagged with:



Apr 022014
 

april  016this morning i was reminded of why this is such a special place and how much i love my life here! i decided to go for a fish today and on checking the tides saw it was high tide at about 10:30, i wanted to fish the turn and fall of the tide chasing some barra in the bay, so I chucked a couple of rods in the boat and about mid morning headed out to catalinas to launch. 5 minutes later I was over in the mangroves on the other side of the bay  –   the only boat on the water, a light breeze and sun shining!

I spent a couple of hours working the rocky outcrops and mangroves as the tide started to fall and pull the bait out of their cover, using the electric Minn Kota means its stealth mode and you get to see everything going on in the water, i saw schools of beautiful diamond rays, black backs speckled with white spots, i saw little reef sharks cruising the shallows, schools of mullet and gars, sea eagles waiting for lunch and jabiru storks flying past.

The barra were proving hard to raise, but a beautiful big squid, sparkling iridescent colours, showed more than a passing interest in my soft plastic prawn, but he was too slow and a golden snapper stormed out from a rock and snatched the prawn from in front of the squid, it wasnt long before a mangrove jack was added to the esky and then I had a good battle on light gear with a decent tarpon. in between i caught a few small trevally and a fat old black bream.

I was back at the boat ramp by 1:30 so a quick 3 hours on the water, a wealth of wildlife observed, a couple of nice keepers in the esky, some fish for family on the way home and life is good!

 

 

 Posted by at 4:31 pm



Mar 292014
 

darwin  005Putty and I headed over to darwin for a few days this week as we had a union conference on friday & we figured as our airfares and a couple of nights accomodation were paid for, we may as well add a couple of days for R&R and shopping.

if you are looking for accomodation, dont stay at the Luma Luma Apartments, we had to have 2 nights there before moving across the road to the Mantra Pandanus Apartments which are hard to beat for a short stay. If you really want to know how bad Luma Luma is check out my review on Trip Advisor  – LINK

Putty won the shopping competition hands down, maybe the fact I havent got my redundancy yet was a partial reason, but I reckon he could shop for australia. my role was reduced to his PA and driver, the payment reflecting the quality and enthusiasm of my work.

i wont bore you with details of the conference, 2 people bored is enough, instead i will concentrate on the dining highlights – there are not many in darwin but there are a few gems if you hunt them out. starting with coffee and breakfast, as any day should, we discovered The Pearl, a new cafe in the arcade beside the old Vic Hotel site. they have a stunning 3 group Kees Van der Westen Mirage Idrocompresso, which pulled liovely syrupy shots.

the breakfast menu is small, unusual and shows the advantage of fresh produce and preparing and cooking a few simple, interesting dishes to a high standard. we tried most things on the menu, croque madame was perfect, the baked eggs with creamed corn and panchetta was my favourite, also available was a house cured trout dish and Arabic Rice pudding on almond milk yogurt with poached pears.

for lunch you cant go past the Sumatra Cafe, its at the end of a little arcade off the Smith St Mall, on the left hand side walking up from Knuckey St, just past the playground equipment. Its round the corner to the left so you cant see it until you get to the end of the arcade. It must be one of the best kept secrets in darwin, its fantastically authentic Indo food, the only difference is better tables and chairs and air con! its crazy cheap too, a huge plate of rice or noodles with a choice of 3 curries and plenty of veges is just $13. there is also a yummy chilli sauce in a tub which is a perfect accompaniment. just remember, its only open for lunch.

dinner i highly recommend Warung Ibu Amye otherwise known as Laksa House, opposite the car yards on Stuart Hwy, the Laksa is just perfect and sitting outside at the plastic tables on plastic chairs in the balmy tropical night air of darwin adds an extra level of authenticity! go early, Amye only cooks the fresh produce she buys for that night so once its gone thats it! friday and saturday night Amye does her famous charcoal chook and thats a highlight that should not be missed!

thanks to don whyte for the tip about the sumatra cafe – only guy to do your framing in darwin FRAMING

thanks to darwin’s man for all seasons, musician, author and cook, phil o’brien, for the tip about Warung Ibu Amye, LINK

 

 

 Posted by at 7:32 pm



Mar 172014
 

brian  015friends are special, its a self evident truth, but we were reminded of it this week past when old friends Brian & Penny visited nhulunbuy. they left about quite a few years ago, but we have remained in touch over the years and caught up a couple of times.

brian & penny stayed with our mutual friend dave, but the days started at rick’s bar and grill for coffee and ended here for dinner and copious amounts of alcohol! we once again enjoyed sharing our table with others with a fine appreciation for food, meals included char grilled steak with grilled vegetables and french fries, freshly caught fish in panko breadcumbs, thai fish cakes, mango salsa and wild mountain rice, fish amok (cambodian curry), and potato and mackerel bake.

brian, dave and i worked on several EBAs together and i grew to admire his intellect, humour and humanity – and a week of fishing, drinking, eating and talking crap only confirmed what a great mate he is. it was also good to spend more time than we usually find for each other, with dave – we live 100m from each other and dont spend as much time as we should hanging out.

its so important to maintain relationships across time and space, beyond family its all we have and one of the main things that defines us.

as with all really good friends, we may not stay in contact, or even catch up all that often these days, but when we do it just picks up from where we left off.

we got plenty of fishing in too, brian got some nice barra out of the bay  and we had a great days mackeral fishing out on dave’s boat.

anyway, time to let the images do the talking!

 

 Posted by at 6:08 pm



Feb 242014
 

salad  014i have been struggling to make good roti since returning from our holiday, its getting there, but not blog photo quality yet!

so my first post holiday post is the salad we had in the bus stop food hall in butterworth after catching the ferry across from georgetown, its the simplest salad in the world, fresh pineapple, red onion, salted cucumber and chilli. generously salt the cucumber after slicing and then mix the ingredients. I added a sploosh of fish sauce and a splatter of castor sugar to finish the seasoning.

I used a mild chilli so i could add plenty of colour, its the perfect accompaniment to a spicy meal, we had it with beef curry, dahl and roti on mountain rice.

click on nhawi in the header to see new home page.

 

 Posted by at 7:01 pm  Tagged with:



Feb 072014
 

holv7 (10)

our last night in saigon, alex and minh came over on their motorbikes and picked sal and i up and we took off over to the other side of the river and a seafood restaurant that had been closed for tet festival up until last night.

it was a great final meal on a trip of great meals, we let minh order, and the rest of the night there was just a constant stream of plates of various shellfish – which was obviously the specialty of the restaurant. they were mostly cooked over charcoal and had a variety of sauces and marinades, we also had chargrilled corn with onions and salted eggs and plenty of greens.

a steady flow of beer helped wash it all down before we mounted our steeds and tore off back into the city where we went up to the 23rd floor of a non-descript looking office building – but at the top is the Shri Restaurant & Bar. we had a coffee while looking out over saigon at night, then it was back to the hotel for a goodbye beer and our last nights sleep before flying to singapore tomorrow and then on to darwin and home.

here are a couple more photos i hadnt put up yet, i am sitting at the airport as we wait for our flight to singapore and feeling a little sad about leaving this beautiful city, but confident we will be back again – for a longer stay and more exploration of the rest of vietnam.

I am sure one thing this trip has settled for both sal & I are that there are plenty of places we would be happy to spend 6 months a year as a base, malaysia has several possibilities and we have previously considered bali, now vietnam is definitely on the list.

dad used to come up to saigon every year and spend a few months here, i can understand now how he fell in love with the place and people.

it also completes a small ambition of mine, dad and i had travelled to so many countries together and vietnam was I believe, the only one i hadnt been to.

 

 Posted by at 11:25 am



Feb 062014
 

holv6 (6)

thats the view from the steps of the thuc cafe, where i have just enjoyed an espresso on the way home from breakfast, its typical of the heart of this vibrant place, wide footpaths, tree lined streets, small parks, with all the buzz of an international city.

the longer we spend here, the more convinced we are to come back and live here for an extended time – like 6 months, it was always our loose plan to spend our retirement living somewhere overseas for 6 months and somewhere in australia for the other 6 months – saigon is the first place in our recent travels where I am really certain I wish to come back to and spend time actually living here.

breakfast today was at the i.d. Cafe, the first time we visited we sat downstairs where they have their coffee machine and a couple of little tables, and enjoyed an espresso, it wasnt until I asked where the toilet was and they directed me upstairs, that we discovered they have a large upstairs space with a small restaurant, funky decorations and a view out over the local streets.

so today sal & I went back for a leisurely breakfast, sal had an omelette with baguette and i had char grilled pork with vermicelli noodles, bean sprouts, peanuts, thai basil, coriander and a typical vietnamese dressing. with a couple of short macchiatos the bill came to about $12 – which is not cheap in saigon but it was yummy and is at least half what a similar meal in a trendy cafe would cost in sydney.

 

Feb 042014
 

i read about this little stall in an alley on a website devoted to saigon streetfood, its rumoured to have the best gà nướng or BBQ chook with broken rice. we taxied out there tonite to give it a shot, its not easy to find and a fair way from our hotel. the couple that run it have a few little tables lining the alley and a big char grill at one end to bbq the chook and pork on.

its a pretty crazy scene, they are absolutely flat out and as the food is cooked at one end of the alley and plated up to be served at the other end, the staff are sprinting from one end of the alley to the other, balancing plates of gà nướng and the couple of other dishes they cook here – all the time dodging the motorbikes that are still using the narrow, table lined alley!

the food lived up to its reputation, succulent and tender chook bbq’d in a scrumptious marinade, on a bed of ‘broken’ rice, a few pickles, some tomato and cucumber slices and a side dish of fresh chilli sauce. all for about $1.75 each!

they also do a side dish called cha, a steamed loaf of ground pork, mushroom, crab and other “secret” ingredients, but the language barrier meant we ended up missing out this time!

the taxis cost $10 to get us there and back – so about double the price of dinner for 3! if we were staying longer I would definitely get a motor bike for running round like this. Still compared to just about anywhere else, $15 all up for a meal for 3 and transport is still pretty damn cheap!

Feb 042014
 

holv3 (14)

Bánh mì is the perfect fast food and/or hangover cure in Saigon. walk any street in Saigon and you’re likely to find at least one street food vendor smearing a small baguette with pâté, dropping in some cold cuts, pickled vegetables and fresh coriander squirting in some soy sauce (and adding a few chili peppers) … then wrapping it in a small sheet of paper and snapping a rubber band around the assembly. Off you go with a great hangover cure, midday or midnight sandwich snack.

Luckily you can usually find a street cart selling bánh mì right next to a cafe serving a great coffee so you could probably live on a diet of bánh mì and coffee indefinitely!

sal and i had a bánh mì and coffee to try to dispel the foggy head and lethargy that undoubtably had plenty to do with the excesses of last night, sal headed home but i decided to wander down town to the restaurant where we dined last night to pick up the jumper i had left there due to my early onset dementia.

as i was strolling along the shady boulevards of saigon i was assailed by a number of dodgy looking old men on motorbikes, slowing down so they could offer me ‘special massage with nice girl’, i suspect what they were offering was neither special nor a massage – and probably not a nice girl either!

it did occour to me they were missing their mark, had they offered me “special bánh mì or phở” – I probably would have taken them up on their kind offer and jumped on the back of their honda.

instead i gently declined their offer of “special massage” and continued my meanderings through the shady streets.

Feb 042014
 

holv3

the longer we spend in this city the more I enjoy it, certainly somewhere I want to come back and live for a few months, its got a lovely feel to it, very friendly, and as i said earlier, the wide boulevards, lots of big trees, wide footpaths and very clean streets make it stand out.

kai and banyans

yesterday we caught up with Alex Vu, our mutual friend, peter phipps is an old garma festival mate of mine and he hooked us up with alex when we told peter we were coming to saigon.

alex came over to our apartment and invited us back to his house to see a traditional vietnamese family home, he offered to take kai over on his motorbike while sal and i caught a taxi – as you can imagine kai took to that idea like a rat up a drainpipe!

holv3 (2)

we spent a very enjoyable afternoon at alex’s house enjoying his hospitality, his parents and the rest of the family are away up north for the tet holiday so he was home alone, the house is 4 stories high, on a small footprint. after a tour of the house we settled down to beers, rice wine and lots of nibblies!

holv3 (3)

we walked home after a couple of hours with alex with a plan to catch up for dinner with another of his friends later on, that gave us time for a nanna nap and sober up before heading out on the town!

alex and his friend minh arrived and we headed out to the bbq garden restaurant for a slap up meal, we started off with a 3 litre ‘jug’ of beer which seemed like the perfect solution to a problem we didnt even know about!

the table has a bbq in the middle of the table and you simply order dishes off the menu and then cook them on the plate, we had goat, beef in betel leaf, prawns, squid, vegies and probably more i have forgotten!

we then came back up near our apartment where there are lots of little japanese bars and enjoyed a bottle of warm sake, tuna sashimi and sushi, alex and minh then took us to the havana club to finish the night off – well sort of, after that we did end up back at the apartment having a few beers and a wide ranging, intellectual, articulate and erudite drunken rave!

All in all a wonderful night, with great company, yummy food and a big hangover on the way!

 

Feb 022014
 

we awoke a bit doughy this morning after a bottle of vietnamese red and too many beers playing poker last night! we did have a very comfortable sleep on board the good ship Le Conchinchine 3, and the crepes, fresh fruit and strong black coffee got us going pretty quickly. It was a lovely calm misty morning on the mekong river and we headed off in a smaller boat to explore the floating markets of Cai Be as well as visiting villagers using traditional methods to make rice paper for spring rolls and puffed rice for cereals and munchy treats. I have added a couple of short videos to show these traditional skills and you can watch them below.

we also visited a beautiful traditional wooden vietnamese house that is nearly 200 years old and operates as a home stay now. we enjoyed a fruit platter and pot of tea in the gardens after wandering through the house and admiring not just the construction but the beautiful antique furniture,

both the rice paper and puffed rice are made using a fire made from the rice husks, we saw the same fuel used in the brick kilns, and the ash after the husks are burnt is used as fertiliser so there is very little wasted in the production chain of rice!

the rice paper sheets are made with a form of rice milk that you can see in the tub beside the woman, the puffed rice is mixed with river sand in a large wok – the sand has become black from the burning husks and is continuously reused.







so it was goodbye to Le Conchinchine 3 and her wonderful crew, and our guide Kiet, and off in our car to Ho Chi Minh City, we arrived early in the afternoon and have settled into our apartment in down town Saigon, on first appearances its a beautiful city, wide boulevards, unusally wide and flat footpaths for this part of the world and lots of trees and old buildings.

holv1 (29)

we ducked out for our first meal – a bowl of Pho, luckily we found a little street food stall that was open – as much of Saigon is closed for the Tet holiday, and for the princley sum of about $4 we had a bowl of Pho each and Kai had a plate of chicken and rice. I think we are going to enjoy our few days here!

holv2

 

Feb 022014
 

we woke on saturday morning in chau doc and went for a wander through the huge street market before breakfast, which we got at a stall across the road from the restaurant, rice with a thin pork steak that was freshly char grilled, served with a yummy spicy sauce and a little salad.

we were picked up by a driver and headed off for our slow boat which was waiting for us in Long Xuyen, we arrived about lunch time and met our guide for the next couple of days, kiet. we headed out in the small boat and kiet explained that we were the only guests on the good ship “Le Conchinchine” – a boat 80′ long with 3 decks, 12 cabins  and 4 crew!!

we got comfortable and then headed off down the mighty mekong river towards Sa Dec, we had a delicious lunch of banana flower salad with shredded chicken followed by fried bread pork parcels, which I suspect were a bit fattening! never mind, because ahead of us was a 12km ride through flower growing villages outside Sa Dec.

first we disembarked into the small boat and went across  the river to look at some brick kilns, the driveshaft promptly fell apart and we started drifting downriver, kiet and I managed to paddle across to the kilns while the driver hung upside down over the motor trying to fix the drive shaft!

we rejoined the big boat and motored off down the mekong, its a magical thing travelling down a big river slowly on a large boat, there is plenty of time to take all the sights in, a lovely breeze keeps you cool, people yell out to you from the banks, you can move around, snooze, or play hide and seek with the crew!

we then unloaded the bikes and set off for Sa Dec where the big boat would meet us, it was absolutely magical, we rode mainly on quiet concrete paths through the shady villages, winding our way through the beautiful nurseries  of flowers that these villages are famous for. it was late afternoon and a lovely temperature for a leisurely ride!

we dropped the bikes back at the boat at the sa dec wharf and then had a quick wander through the nightmarkets, before setting off to steam down river to our night anchorage, we sat up on the top deck watching the sun go down, sipping a beer while sal had a foot massage at the same time from one of the crew!

holv1 (25)

market in sa dec

dinner was served after our cocktails in the dining deck, we had a delicate soup first, just vegetables but really tasty, next we had calamari, this was followed by rice with stir fried vegies, sweet and sour pork and a whole fish done in a tomato chilli sauce.

following dinner we had a few games of poker with the crew before retiring to our huge cabins for a well earned rest!

Jan 312014
 

holc12

bye to cambodia, and hi to vietnam!

today we caught the fast boat from phnom penh, down the mekong river to châu dóc, a small city on the river where we are spending a night in a hotel before joining the slow boat for the trip on to ho chi min city (HCMC).

as toad of toad hall famously said, “there is nothing half so much fun as simply messing about in boats!”, its such a pleasant way to travel, cool breeze, no bumps, great scenery as you cruise down the river, comfortable chairs, more leg space than a plane and you can sit outside.

also border crossings are so much more civilised, we pulled into a jetty and disembarked to clear out of cambodia, left our luggage on board, a couple of minutes later and our passports were stamped, we bought a cold beer from the girl on the jetty and jumped back on the boat.

exactly 1 beer later and we pulled into the jetty at the vietnamese border, someone took all our passports, we sat around and had another beer, climbed back on the boat and the same someone gave us all our passports back, stamped and we were officially in vietnam!

the whole trip took about 5 hours and we pulled in to châu dóc just before sunset, someone said to us our hotel was “50m that way and then turn left and its on your right down that street”. after following those directions and finding nothing resembling a hotel we asked some locals eating their dinner where the hotel was and despite their lack of english and our total absence of vietnamese, they took us to the door.

we had no sooner let ourselves in the room than the tour operator from ho chi minh that I had booked the boat trips through rang us to check we had arrived ok, and then told us the arrangements for our transfer by car to the slow boat in the morning.

it never ceases to amaze me how these things all just seem to fall into place, considering this was all organised at the last minute via email with someone in HCMC and it relied on a tuk tuk picking us up from our hotel in phnom penh, dropping us at the ferry terminal, somehow someone knowing which boat we were meant to go on from the 4 tied up at the wharf, getting us on the right boat, across two borders and into a hotel in the back streets of a wild river town – all with minimal language in common and none of the people involved working directly for the company organising the trip who were in a city hundreds of km’s away.

the internet has certainly transformed travel beyond belief in the last 10 years!

so of course the order of the day was to get straight out on the streets and find some nice local food, we walked 50m up the street from the hotel and there were just acres of street carts making fresh vietnamese meals, hundreds of people perched on the ubiquitous plastic stools at a shonky plastic table woofing down great fresh food.

sal saw a noodle dish being taken to a table and so pointed to that to choose a dish, i managed to get the girl serving to pick something off the menu for me – which turned out to be beef with chilli and lemongrass, and kai ended up with shredded chicken and fried rice – not quite what he wanted but he ate it with gusto! sal’s turned out to be noodles with prawns and squid and a top choice!

click on ‘i’ in top left corner of images for caption.